 |
This account of the society charabanc trip to France
in July 2001 is
presented with thanks to the irrepressible John Barfoot - alias F/Sgt Dogzbody, RFC |
Society Trip to France - July 2001
It was my privilege to be among the eight members of Cross & Cockade who met
at 08:00 on Friday 2nd July, in the forecourt of Euston Railway Station, for the journey
by road to Paris and the famous Air Museum at Le Bourget. The trip was ably organised by
Mike Pearce, aided and abetted by Paul Leaman. By 08.15 our mini-bus with Paul at the
wheel was battling through the London rush hour traffic. Once across the river and into
the Kent countryside it was a case of "tails up" for France!
Pausing along the motorway for elevenses, and to attach the large C&C badge brought
long by Des Furze to the front of the bus (well, it pays to advertise!) we continued to
Dover and on to the ferry. The Channel was like a millpond, so lunch was enjoyed by all.
Leaving Calais behind us, with Mike now at the wheel we were soon in familiar territory.
The hangars of St. Omer passed on our left hand, looking a little different from the last
time Jimmy McCudden saw them back in 1918. So many signposts familiar to WWI buffs flashed
by our windows as Mike made the most of the prevailing west wind of Flanders.
"I love Paris in the summer when it sizzles" - well thats what the song
says, and it did just that the Friday afternoon we arrived at our hotel in Bagnolet, just
twenty five minutes away from the Musée. The first thing was to check the plumbing - the
showers and air conditioning were working, so the patron saint of WWI Aero buffs continued
to smile upon us. Having been on the dawn patrol, we opted for dinner in the hotel
restaurant and a chance to get to know Luca Farina, an Italian C&C member accompanying
our group visit to Le Bourget the next morning.
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Seven of the intrepid eight. From left to right:
John Howton, Luca Farina, Roger Williams, Des Furze, Paul Leaman, Mike Pearce, Andrew
Bell and George Miller. |
My first impression of the Musée de LAir was the magnificent facade that
was once Le Bourget air terminal. Above the forecourt, three red white and blue jet
trainers arranged on pylons appeared to be performing a bomb burst manoeuvre - or was it a
fleur de lys? No time to ponder - a couple of group photographs and we went inside to be
greeted by Pegouds Bleriot, suspended (appropriately inverted) from the ceiling.
Apart from one or two members of staff, we had the Grand Gallery all to ourselves. We
raided the Museum shop on arrival, so were able to spend the rest of the morning
uninterrupted, looking and photographing. The lighting put some UK air museums in the
shade (sorry Hendon). Farman, Breguet, Caudrons, SPADs, DH9, Pfalz and Fokker - with some
of the grounded machines having pilots, observers and ground crew attired in authentic
clothing, adding to the exhibits. Showcases of large-scale models - including an
observation balloon winch lorry, with right hand drive! That set me thinking - when did
this lot (bless em) start driving on the wrong side of the road?
Up among the catwalks, with a walk through a Zeppelin engine gondola. The view afforded
by the catwalks of the exhibits suspended from the high roof gave me a chance to pay my
respects to "Old Charlie" one of Georges Guynemers SPAD biplanes. I was
pleased to see that it looked just like the flying scale model of 254 I made in my
creative years, when my eyes were clear and my fingers still nimble.
I dont know how Mike managed it, but we virtually had the Museum to ourselves for
the duration of the visit. It could not have been a better morning! Good company, and a
superb collection of well maintained vintage aeroplanes - more than enough to satisfy even
the most demanding member of our Society. Although the morning could not have been better,
the best was yet to come. About 14:00 our little group returned to entrance, where Melvin
Hiscock had arranged to meet us, so that we could follow his car around the old airfield
perimeter, where we parked up alongside several workshops.
Melvin took us into the first, and introduced us to the French enthusiasts, working on
a 1915 Bleriot two seater with a l60hp Le Rhone, and a Fokker Dr1 with a 160hp Le Rhone,
that had recently acquired an authentic streaky brown paint job.
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Rittmeister Paul Freiherr von Leaman casts a critical eye over the Dr1 |
An opportunity to examine an uncovered SE5a fuselage revealed the working of the
tailplane trim, and the plumbing for the Constantinesco synchro gear as it enters the back
of the gun breech. This was usually padded on rotary-engined machines, to protect the
pilot from serious facial injury - I must find out how the CC plumbing was fitted to a
Camel.
Tucked away in various corners of the workshop were an LVG fuselage awaiting attention,
and a SPAD VII that had survived the rigors of Hollywood war-flying films as part of the
Talmantz collection.
The craftsmanship displayed by our French friends is superb - and I couldnt get
over the how clean and tidy the workshop was for our visit! I had a double check just in
case Prince Charles or Elton John was with us, masquerading as C&C members ...
Next door the workshop housed an ex-French Navy Lancaster under renovation. As the
French Lanc will be for static display only, the con-rods from her Merlin
engines will be exchanged for the Battle of Britain Flight Lancaster con-rods, that are
nearing their sell by date. Other interesting items in No.2 workshop were a French
1950s vintage helicopter, and the framework of wartime German gliders that had been
in use against the Resistance groups fighting in the mountains.
In the third workshop was an amazing collection of aero-engines under renovation, from
the flat twin used in the Santos-Dumont Demoiselle of 1908 to a Merlin from a Spanish
ME109.
All too soon the time came to thank Melvin and our French hosts - it had been an
afternoon to remember. Then it was back to the hotel to shower and change before setting
off down town for dinner, and to compare notes on all we had seen. We were still comparing
notes when we returned to the hotel bar. It was well past midnight when I left them to it,
after making my farewell to Luca, who was by then "my old Italian mate"!
Sunday morning (it having rained during the early hours - or so they told me!) it was
cooler, as guided by George Miller Mike headed for a Paris Flea Market. Leaving Paris
about mid day, Mike took a detour from the motorway to give us a chance to pay our
respects at the Arras Memorial for British and Commonwealth service men with no known
grave. For someone who has studied the first war in the air for the past 60 years, the
sight of this monument, inscribed with the names of the airmen of the RNAS, RFC and RAF
with no known grave, was a moving experience. Thanks to the Mikes knowledge of
French motorways we arrived back in Calais in time to catch an earlier ferry than we had
planned, and enjoyed a mid Channel lunch.
Back in Blighty Paul took over the driving, and at 20:30 Sunday evening I was home
again, telling Pat what I had been up to in Paris - and bless her she believes me